Wednesday, March 28, 2012

What I Will Miss About Jamaica

Wow! I can't believe it has been over a week since my last post.  Time is really starting to fly by.  Not much has been going on... we have finally settled into a routine and our days just seem to pass by.  I believe we are in the rainy season now as it rains everyday so we do not get out as much as we used to.

Classes are going great.  The students remain engaged and interested.  Out of all of the things that I will miss about Jamaica, I will certainly miss the students at UWI.

My research has kind of slowed as I feel I have exhausted all of my resources.  Apparently, there are no more cemeteries in this area for me to explore.  I have resolved to just use the data that I have collected so far since I will be presenting a paper on my work in just two weeks.

Last night Joshua and I attended a lecture put on by the History and Archaeology Department. I figured at 9 years old he is ready to be exposed to lectures and community events.  I thought he would sleep through the whole thing but he surprised me by staying awake.  Although not really my research interest, I enjoyed the lecture as well.  The speaker, a Professor Emeritus, was wonderful.  During his lecture all I could think was how awesome it would have been to take one of his classes.


All in all, things are going well.  I have just three more lectures and my semester here is over.  It is bittersweet.  I miss home like crazy but I know I will miss Jamaica like crazy once we are gone.

What will I miss... let's see.

1. For starters I will miss the people.  The people here in Kingston have been AMAZING.  The people I have met here are the kindest, most helpful, wonderful people.  I have spent these last couple of months blending in which I have never been able to do before (except for my days at HU). It feels like a huge weight lifted, believe it or not.  Walking down the street and not being noticed is an amazingly relieving feeling.  It is hard to explain.  Living in a world back home where people who look like me are not the majority and knowing that I come from a place where tragedies like what happened to Trayvon Martin still occur, I realized I am constantly aware of myself (and my children) and how I (we) fit in to my surroundings.  Here, I have not had to think about how I fit into my surroundings at all (until I talk) because I just fit here.  No one considers me.  I am just part of the daily landscape. Make sense?

2. I will miss the scenery.  Waking up to these spectacular views is not to be taken for granted and I try not to do so.  I have learned to take a few extra minutes each morning and each night (and whenever I can) to just enjoy my surroundings (the mountains, the blue skies, the flowers and trees, all of it).

3.  I will miss the food... the wonderful fresh fruit that I have raved about in previous posts.  I will miss the fresh fish, especially the brown stewed fish.  I will miss the Shirley coconut biscuits and bag juices. I will miss the fried chicken from the deli around the corner and the grapenut and rum raisin ice cream from the lady at the corner store.

4. I will miss this house as it has become home to us these last couple of months. We are finally completely comfortable in this big house.  All of our stuff is finally where it needs to be and we are settled in.

5.  I will miss being able to walk to and from work. I hear that gas prices are up at home so I will definitely miss not being able to walk to campus.  Not having a car (and even if I did being to scared to drive here) has really changed me. At home I drive a big SUV and can come and go whenever I please. Here in Kingston I have learned to survive by utilizing resources that I can access on foot. I have learned to rely on my own two feet to for basic necessities such as getting food or getting my kids to the doctor or walking them to the park.  I hope I continue to appreciate my own two feet when I get home instead of going back to being overly dependent on my gas guzzling vehicle. Best of all, this is a form of exercise.  I have started moving again which I REALLY appreciate. Maybe if I put it in writing for the whole world to see I will continue to wake up and walk a couple miles each day.  I still have pounds of baby weight I need to get rid of (yeah right baby weight... my baby is two years old... but you know what I mean!).

Tuesday, March 20, 2012

Carnival, Class, Dinner, and other Random Things

The last couple of days have been good.  On Saturday we walked up to campus to see the Carnival parade.  It was great but I probably should have left my kids at home and I definitely should have left my mom at home :-).  The dancing was a bit... how do I say it... adult!  We stayed for the experience though.  Here are some *mild* pictures:



Yesterday the other archaeology lecturer and I took the class out to the Papine Cemetery site.  It was great to be able to actually SHOW students things instead of just talking about them. They asked great questions and gave good feedback so I think they enjoyed not being in the classroom as well.

This was my view walking home from class yesterday.  I guess Jamaica has a "fall" after all :-)

Stunning tree with falling yellow flowers

It's hard to believe that there are only 8 lectures left in the semester.  Now that we are at the end it feels like it went fairly quick.  I still have to finish my research and write a paper that I will present at the symposium in just a few short weeks.

Today I examined the human skeletal remains recovered from the back dirt pile from the Papine Cemetery.  Since the remains are very fragmentary and out of context, not a lot of useful information could be gathered.

At home the kids are doing great!  Kids are so resilient and adjust so easy.  I know they are eager to get home but they do not show it at all.  They work on their school work, play with their electronics, and play outside.  Their has been very little sibling bickering (thank goodness). One thing the kids have really enjoyed is trying all of the new fruits we have discovered here in Jamaica.

Tamarind (and the seed of another) my Rasta Man Friend brought to us to try. Yummy!
 
Custard Apple... doesn't look to good but it actually tastes pretty good.
Nay devouring the custard apple

Star Apple.  The texture is interesting.  It feels like a jello'd plum in your mouth.  It has a unique taste that I can not really explain.

 Tonight we were desperate for some food other than pizza and fried/ jerk chicken.  I found a place online called The Wok so I called to place an order for some yummy Chinese food.  The conversation was difficult and basically I understood yes to delivery and chicken so I said 'yes, please bring chicken'.  Half an hour later we were excited to see the delivery guy arrive with our Chinese food.  We took all of the food out and spooned it into bowls only to discover that the food was from an Indian restaurant.  No wonder that conversation was so strained I was trying to order Chinese from and Indian restaurant from a woman with a Jamaican and Indian accent. I felt slightly silly but we dug in and the food was amazing.  The order came with roti so we were able to eat traditionally as well.  The kids really enjoyed eating with their fingers (and so did I).

Our delicious Indian dinner


Thursday, March 15, 2012

Port Royal and Lime Cay

Today was absolutely amazing!  We made the trip to Port Royal.  Port Royal is a small fishing village with a lot of history 

Here's some history on the site borrowed from the Jamaica National Heritage Trust website (http://www.jnht.com/site_port_royal.php)


"HISTORY
Port Royal was once called "the richest and wickedest city in the world". When only a sand spit, it was first used by the Tainos as a fishing camp. When the Spaniards arrived in Jamaica, they used the spit for cleaning, refitting and caulking of their sailing vessels.

When the British invaded Jamaica in 1655, immediately realising its strategic importance, they started to put fortifications in place.
During the 17th century, it was the virtual capital of Jamaica, and also a headquarters for buccaneers and pirates who brought in much of the treasure they looted on the Spanish Main. Chief among the buccaneers was Henry Morgan who sacked Camaguey, Port Bello, Maracaibo and Panama. Morgan was later knighted and made Lieutenant Governor of Jamaica. He died at Port Royal in 1688.
By 1692 Port Royal had become an important economic centre, but on June 7, of that year, it was destroyed by an earthquake. A large portion of the town sank into the sea, while about two fifth of the population-died either in the earthquake or in the plagues and pestilences that followed.
Almost immediately the houses and fortifications were rebuilt on what by then was an island separated from the rest of the Palisades, but in 1703 a fire destroyed the entire town which had been rebuilt mainly of wood. Hurricanes in 1712, 1722 and 1726 ensured that Port Royal would never again rise to its former glory, as all the merchants shifted across the harbour to settle in Kingston, a less healthy, but safer site than Port Royal. However, Port Royal did not decline entirely, as in the 18th century, it enjoyed renewed fame as a British Naval Station. Among those associated with it were the illustrious Horatio Nelson and the hard-fighting admirals Benbo w, Vernon and Rodney.
After the Napoleonic wars Port Royal declined in importance. The Naval Dockyard was closed in 1905 and moved to Canada; the 1907 earth¬quake damaged the town while the garrison left in the 1950s. Hurricane Charlie of 1951 swept over Port Royal leaving only a few buildings of its historic past.
Today with the warships and the soldiers gone, Port Royal has become a quiet fishing village, but it is one of the most important historical and archaeological sites in Jamaica-let it never be forgotten that for over 200 years, Port Royal was England's biggest naval base in the Caribbean, so strong and powerful, that no enemy dared attack it."

From Port Royal we headed out on a small motor boat to the deserted island of Lime Cay.  The island is about 2 miles from the coast of Port Royal in the middle of the ocean. The place was AMAZING!!! There was only one other family on the entire island.  We had the beach to ourselves.  The water was so warm and clear we didn't want to get out.  We stayed on the island for a couple of hours and then the boat returned to get us and the other family.  

On the boat to Lime Cay... my mom not to thrilled that I'm taking her pic
A view of the island from the boat


 
Enjoying the wonderful water

Taking a stroll around the island

My mom exploring (that's Kingston in the background)

Nathaniel's footprints in the sand

A pic of my feet just to show how clear the water is
 Once back in Port Royal we had to try Gloria's, the restaurant known far and wide and famous for their brown stewed fish.  We ordered one place of brown stewed fish and one plate of fried fish with the intention of sharing.  I'm so glad we did, each plate was filled with 3 huge fish and festival on the side.  The food was so wonderful. We all left saying we completely see why people come from far and wide to enjoy that fish.


View of the village as we coasted into shore
sign at Gloria's


Averie waiting patiently for our food to come

Gloria's resturant

I forget to take a pic before we started eating *oops*... so this is some of the fish half way through our meal 

On the way out of Port Royal our driver was gracious enough to stop and let me explore the old Naval Cemetery.  The gate was open so we just went right in.  I was able to get some work done today afterall!  What an interesting site.  Here's some photos:
Sign at the entrance of the cemetery

Naval cemetery

More of the Naval Cemetery
 
Even more of the Naval Cemetery
 After the cemetery visit we really headed home.  The kids were exhausted and all three sleep in the car.
Two exhausted kids asleep in the van
 

Sunday, March 11, 2012

Visit from my friend Billie

7 March 12
Today we had to make the dreaded journey to the children’s hospital L.  Averie is not getting better and her fever spiked to 103 degrees yesterday.  Of course I freaked out and first thing this morning we were off to the hospital. Before I get into the details of that ordeal let me tell you something more exciting.  My friend Billie arrived yesterday!  It was so great to see her as we haven’t seen each other since grad school.  We enjoyed a bottle of Appleton as we talked on the porch. 

Taking Averie to the doctor was an experience within itself.  As an anthropologist I hate to admit this but I realized during that event just how “American” I am. The conditions of the hospital are definitely not what we are used to in the states.  They didn't disappoint us however with the dreaded lines.  To make a long story short, after about 5 hours in the hospital Averie and I found ourselves sneaking out (we ended up calling our pediatrician back home and unofficially received treatment from afar)

9 March 12
Happy Birthday to my niece Italy!!!

What a day here in Jamaica.  We slept in this morning.  I actually did not roll out of the bed until 830a this morning. Once we were up I fixed the kids some french toast and then Billie and I headed out to meet Adrian the coffee man. We met Adrian in Papine where he was waiting with 10 bags of coffee beans. We bought the coffe and chatted for a while, promised we would see him again soon and were off to our next stop.  Our next stop was Tastee Patties where I grabbed the kids some chicken patties and cocoa bread and Billie grabbed a bean and cheese patty. We headed back to the house to drop off the food and then Mr Dennis took me to the US Embassy so that I could pick up my box.

After those errands were run, Billie, my kids, my mama, and I headed to the Bob Marley museum.  It was a great tour of a phenomenal man.  Even my 9yr old son said “I never knew a museum about Bob Marley would be so interesting”.

There was a small cafĂ© outside of the museum where I got what they call a Yatty (instead of patty).  It was AMAZING.  It was steamed cabbage and other mixed vegetables inside a whole wheat patty.  Even the kids couldn’t get enough of it.  I’m hoping that is not the only place to find them.

Once home, Billie and I walked to the market on campus and returned to enjoy a predinner glass of Appleton.  Around 5p she and I headed out to the Guilt Trip. The food was wonderful.  I had a penne pasta with pumpkin, carmalized onions and a rich creamy sauce. Yum!  Billie had the sea base covered in this garlicky sauce with a bed of rice and vegetables. That was really good too (we shared!).  To compliment diner we both had an Appleton mixer (or two J).  For dessert we shared what was supposed to be a slice of rim raisin cheesecake (but we both believe it was just cheesecake minus the rum and the raisin).





My friend Billie at the Guilt Trip

Smoked salmon "pizza"
 

We returned home to some rowdy kids and I made it worse with the huge piece of chocolate cake that I brought back for them. After an hour or so of winding down the kids, Billie and I enjoyed one more glass of Appleton on the porch.

11 March 12
Not much of an update here… just enjoying the second day of this extremely lazy weekend!!!

Sunday, March 4, 2012

The National Library of Jamaica and a Mountain Trip


29 Feb 12
Hooray!  My hubby is coming today!  I can not wait to see him!!!  So far today has been good.  I was able to get up this morning and get some grading done for my Anth 220 class that ended on Monday. Mr Dennis came to pick me up around 1030a and we headed to the National Library of Jamaica.  On the way to the library Mr Dennis told me how he was still thinking about our visit to the Chinese cemetery yesterday.  He then proceeded to tell me of some the supersitions many Jamaicans believe regarding visits to the cemetery and some of his own personal stories of spirits that he has encountered. It was very eye opening to hear some of the beliefs held by many Jamaicans regarding death and burial, and it also explained a lot regarding the reactions of people toward me once they find out why I am here.

Once at the library it was a smooth transition into research.  I located several sources that I found useful, made copies, viewed maps, etc.  I was fortunate that an archaeologist that I had previously met happen to be at the library.  She and her colleague were a HUGE help in helping me located resources, offering suggestions of books I should read, and asking tough questions that now has me considering revising my research question.  What was supposed to be a one hour trip to the library turned into a 4 hour stay.  By the time I got home I was to tired to go through any of the information I gathered.  It will have to wait until Monday since Kenric will be here in just a few hours!

My hubby, mama, kids and I are heading camping in the Blue Mountains tomorrw.  I’m not sure what to expect up there but I am so excited. Can’t wait to post pics from our trip.

2 March 12
I cannot even begin to tell you how amazing the Blue Mountains of Jamaica are.  I have never experienced such a peaceful and serene place.  The views were spectacular (and my photos will not do them justice at all).  After a trecherous and terrifying ride up the mountain, Kenric the kids and I (my mom decided to stay at the house) arrived around 2pm on Thursday.  We were met at the visitor’s center/ ranger’s station by the park ranger.  We got all checked in and headed to our cabin.  I was expecting  a camping like experience so I was prepared to “rough it” but to my surprise our cabin was very comfortable.

After we settled into our cabin we headed outside to enjoy the last few hours of daylight.  We walked down to a play area for the kids and walked the perimeters of our cabin.  As the sun started going down we headed inside and heated up dinner (jerk chicken and chips).  After dinner Kenric and I was actually able to sit and talk to each other (with no interruptions… the first time we’ve had each others undivided attention in a long time lol) while the kids played.  Before bed the kids put on a concert for us which we enjoyed and then we sat around laughing as we made up jokes with each other.  It was so wonderful to sit with my family with no interruptions of daily life like the internet, tv, work, school or friends. That moment alone will make Jamaica a place near and dear to my heart. We headed to bed early with the idea of waking up early to go hiking.
It was a rough night for sleep as it was FREEZING in our cabin.  I never imagined that I could ever be that cold in a tropical place like Jamaica.  We truly got a piece of winter that night.

In the morning we were up early, though not as early as we had planned.  We dressed and headed out to go hiking.  We decided on the waterfall trail but shortly into it I realized it was NOT made for kids and toddles as you had to maneuver up steep cliffs the lead off the mountain with no railing or protection.  The kids and I turned back and Kenric continnued on.  The kids and I decided on the more family friendly trail that led to a gorgeous view of Portland and St Andrew.  I was so proud of the kids and they hiked the entire mile and a half (even Nay made it all way up but needed to be carried some of the way down). Just as I started getting worried about Kenric he came strolling up over the hill.  He told me that he was glad we turned back as there was some parts of the trail that were even more treacherous then the part we were on.  Whew!  Good call. After the hike we headed back to the cabin and was greeted by Adrian the coffee man.  He is the nephew of Dennis James (http://adventure.nationalgeographic.com/2009/03/coffee-tom-clynes-text#content). I was able to get 3 bags of coffee, grown in the Blue Mountains, for an extremely reasonable price. I can’t even begin to tell you how excited I am as I was told that coffee from the Blue Mountain costs around US$42 a pound (I was able to get three pounds for less than that).  Adrian the coffee man has promised to bring me several more bags down the mountain before I leave… I’m thinking I should not leave this island with less than 10 bags.

Ranger Station at Hollywell National Park

Our Cabin

Our cabin again
An amazing view of the sun going down in the Blue Mountains

Night time view of the city below the mountains

View from the beginning of the waterfall trail


Waterfall at the end of the waterfall trail



Military base on the next mountain peak over

Nay pointing out something interesting to his brother

The kids heading up the trail 

James Dennis Coffee (Greg I'm bringing you back a bag J
View from the front yard of the cabin (St  Andrew parish down below)

Another view of the mountains and valley below

 4 March 12
Not much to say today…

I learned this morning that my hubby leaving for the second time apparently isn’t any easier.  The kids and I took it hard when Mr Dennis showed up to take Kenric to the airport this morning. 

Our only comfort is in knowing that we will see him in just a few short weeks. He’s gonna come back at the end of March and again in the middle of April and then again at the end of April when he comes to take us home. Due to circumstances out of everyones control, instead of leaving in June, we are now leaving at the end of April. 55 days left  in beautiful Jamaica.